Crockett & Jones says cordovan shoes need special care
22/08/2013
Northampton-based Crockett & Jones buys lots of leather in Europe, but turns to Chicago-based Horween Leathers for its supply of shell cordovan.
“Many of our cordovan-loving customers regularly ask us to develop new styles using the material,” the footwear manufacturer has said. “Unfortunately as with all specialist leathers, the supply of cordovan is restricted due to the lengthy tanning process involved in the production of the material and the availability of the raw material itself.
“Cordovan is not a material that suits all, but for those that enjoy its benefits, it is a must have. It is extremely hard-wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material.”
Its supplier, Horween, describes shell cordovan as “the art of tanning at its finest”. The tannery goes on to say shell cordovan is “a very specific leather, from a particular part of a horsehide”, the shell or crup. Horween has explained that, when cut, these parts of the horsehide have a shell-like shape.
These shells are tanned, stuffed, shaved, and then polished, a process taking Horween technicians at least six months. Each shell is steeped in “gentle vegetable liquors”, hot stuffed, then slicked onto glass frames to dry. Each one is hand curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans to expose the shell. Dyes are hand-rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. Finally, the shells are hand-glazed to achieve “the rich, glossy look and feel prized by fine craftsmen”, such as Crockett & Jones.
The footwear brand has urged its customers to take special care of their shell cordovan shoes. “This material already has a high content of liquor impregnated into it during the tanning process, so it is important not to use too much polish when caring for the shoes,” it has said.
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