Manufacturing and Materials Innovation - World Footwear Archive -

Post pandemic manufacturing trends
Covid-19 quickly turned into a global crisis, evolving at unprecedented speed and scale, and wreaking havoc over the world economy.

World Footwear - Issue Three 2020

Rethinking innovation
Texon has been producing materials for the footwear industry ever since it first introduced its revolutionary cellulose insole board more than 70 years ago.

World Footwear - Issue Three 2020

Avoiding foot odour
Foot odour usually arises from a combination of perspiration and bacteria. Moist feet and socks, dead skin and enclosed footwear provide a perfect breeding ground for the bacteria ...

World Footwear - Issue Three 2020

Conflicting concepts
At first glance, some things in life often seem illogical. One such is the fact that trading in animal hides is based on weight, whereas finished upper leather is bought and sold...

World Footwear - Issue Three 2020

Advancements in cutting
Cutting is known to be one of the most important operations in shoe manufacturing. It deals with a variety of different materials, is vital for the quality of the finished...

World Footwear - Issue Two 2020

Assessing the biodegradability of leather
Agrowing consumer interest in more sustainable products, as well as government demands to create more environmentally-friendly consumer goods, has led the leather industry to...

World Footwear - Issue Two 2020

Fun and Function
The methods used to fasten footwear are as extensive as they are diverse. The most common is of course the simple lace as it is both functional and, by simply varying the length,...

World Footwear - Issue Two 2020

Flexible 3D printing materials
Interest in 3D printing or, as it is often also called, additive manufacturing, has grown steadily since it first appeared in the 1980s for rapid-prototyping.

World Footwear - Issue Two 2020

Seeking a good fit (Part 2)
In the May/June 2019 issue of World Footwear, I gave a general outline on why it is difficult to manufacture shoes that can fit all customers.

World Footwear - Issue One 2020

A troubled year
2019 was a somewhat difficult year with potential threats to economies, trade and stability.

World Footwear - Issue One 2020

A troubled year
2019 was a somewhat difficult year with potential threats to economies, trade and stability.

World Footwear - Issue One 2020

PEF and sustainability
The concept of sustainability is based on the interdependence between human societies and the natural environment. Current patterns of economic and social development are placing...

World Footwear - Issue One 2020

Removing a headache
Developing new products and producing customer samples have always been something of a headache for shoe manufacturers, depending on the type of footwear involved and the length...

World Footwear - Issue One 2020

Tracing the origin of hides
Research centre CTC has developed and is currently implementing a hide identification system that can provide reliable information about the origin of finished leather and provide ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2019

Intelligent shoe making
One of the main challenges in gaining technological leadership in the years to come, for footwear manufacturers and others, will be coming to terms with artificial intelligence.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2019

Top quality lasting
A revival of the traditional lasting process for Goodyear-welted shoes has helped a relative newcomer, Kettering-based Gaziano & Girling, make high-quality, old-school men’s...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2019

Leather good, plastic bad
Leather manufacturers made a grave mistake when they convinced themselves shoe companies could not live without their product. Nevertheless, consensus is growing that there is...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2019

Rivets and tacks
Hand tacks can still play a part in lasting Goodyear-welted shoes and hold an appeal that machine tacks cannot match.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2019

Counterfeiting and traceability
Leather, lining materials, sewing thread and almost everything else that goes into shoes is vulnerable to counterfeiting now. Traceability is the pathway to authenticity and peace ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2019

Safety with comfort
Specialist German safety shoe brand Steitz Secura says footwear must adapt to the needs and anatomy of the worker, not the other way round.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2019

Shape makes a difference
Lasts have evolved to fall in with efficient manufacturing processes, resulting in shoes that no longer reflect the shape of the human foot as faithfully as they used to.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2019

Assessing slip resistance
Methods for testing the coefficient of friction that determine how well soling material will grip the surface and prevent the wearer from slipping are under review.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2019

Standing andworkingwell
Millions of working people spend long hours on their feet; providing them with footwear that will help them avoid pain in the foot, knee and back needs to be a primary...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2019

Up cycling
Up cycling, or creative reuse as it is may also be referred to, can be defined as the process of transforming by-products, waste materials, useless or unwanted products into new...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

Gearing for sports shoes
Carbitex has launched a range of carbon fibre products that provide support in midsoles and insoles.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

LIFE GreenShoes4All
The LIFE GreenShoes4All project will create a Product Environmental Footprint methodology that all companies can eventually use.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

New from Cordura
Cordura uses its military experience to create new materials that reduce energy consumption and cut down on waste.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

RAMS in action
The robotic system is through the testing phase and is now producing high-end shoes in Italy.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

A remarkable material
The natural material offers a range of properties that make it useful in footbeds and inserts.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2019

Best boot forward
Military boots have changed a great deal over the past 50 years. US-based LALO Tactical is one manufacturer working hard to ensure that its products do not let their wearer down...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2019

Fit for kids
There is a myriad of challenges when it comes to designing shoes specifically for children. Selecting the right kind of fitting feature during the design process can go a long way ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2019

Lasts first
After three years of joint development with specialist research and training organisation CTC, Paris-based software start-up Blue Ridge has brought to market a new platform called ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2019

Seeking a good fit
In the first of two articles, the chief technical officer of the Bristol-based AtomLab research centre, Ian Paris, explores why it is difficult to manufacture footwear to fit all...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2019

Louis heels
The way the Louis heel, still a staple of high-end women’s footwear, is attached to a sole has remained unchanged for over 300 years. Its history during that time is fascinating.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2019

Mud sticks
The myriad of falsehoods peddled by anti-meat campaigns inevitably end up filtering down into the leather industry. The reality, however, is that global meat consumption continues ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2019

Plant-based footwear
Susterra propanediol from DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products can serve as the building block for high performance bio-based polyurethanes. A number of brands have incorporated...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2019

The future for virtual sampling?
INESCOP’s ICad3D+ system gives users the ability to create virtual shoe prototypes from scratch. It allows for the footwear design and development process to be considerably...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2019

Women and heels
There are a variety of reasons why some women prefer to wear high heels. Changes in foot shape, likely caused by a growing preference for trainers, are forcing designers to...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2019

Coexisting with cobots
A production model that places people alongside robots on the factory floor is gaining in popularity. And if your co-worker is a robot, it makes more sense to call it a ‘cobot’.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2019

Lasts online
Last manufacturer Fagus has begun making its products available to designers, manufacturers and brands through an online shop. It says it wants to make a contribution to...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2019

In search of lighter footwear
Researchers in Portugal are using new materials, including ultralight microcellular polyurethanes, to produce ‘extra light’ shoes.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2019

A fresh set of difficulties
The author of the World Shoe Review says Asia is still hugely dominant in global footwear production, with 80% of the total, but may now have reached a ceiling.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2019

Solving an old problem
Sympatex believes its Utmospheric technology, which moulds a footwear liner to the shape of the foot, presents a new solution to an old problem: how to put membrane technology...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2019

An alternative to upper stitching?
The previous issue of World Footwear contained an article by CTCP that included details of a new construction from Spanish company Simplicity Works that assembles the upper and...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2018

Fads, trends and classics
A look at the fashion trends that have made an impact on men’s footwear through the ages.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2018

A parting of the ways
Leather’s dominance of the footwear market appears to be at an end, perhaps because the shoe industry has adapted to meet the challenges of today’s world better than the leather...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2018

A new set of problems
A study by SATRA has shown that more than 40% of men in the UK are buying shoes that are one or even two sizes too big to secure footwear of a suitable width.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2018

Allergens in footwear
Thermoplastic elastomers are among the materials to have come to the fore with the rise of athletic footwear.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2018

A further step towards automated shoe production
Polymer producer Covestro has developed an adhesive filament that it says will adapt well to fused filament fabrication processes.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2018

New concepts
Portuguese research organisation CTCP is working on a series of new concepts that it believes will help shoe brands increase their ability to offer consumers customised footwear.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2018

Early safety boots
A twentieth-century timeline of safety shoes and boots, from clogs with iron rims to Chukka boots.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2018

Steel or composite?
An examination of the pros and cons in using steel or composite material to make protective toecaps for safety footwear.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2018

An advance in customisation
A partnership involving Brooks Running Company, insole manufacturer Superfeet and technology from the FitStation project and Desma will deliver a new, highly customisable (but...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2018

PAHs in footwear
European regulation (EU) No 1272/2013 has now been in force for over two years, restricting polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in some rubbers and plastics depending on their ...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2018

All from a single source
Moulds as well as lasts are now available from manufacturers such as Fagus, who are seeking to provide their customers with “the total package”.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2018

Thermoplastic elastomers
Thermoplastic elastomers are among the materials to have come to the fore with the rise of athletic footwear.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2018

20th UITIC Congress
Fascinating factory visits and a detailed and varied conference programme made the Porto event a great success.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2018

Children’s foot health online
It’s only natural for parents seeking information on children’s foot health and how shoes affect it to turn to the internet. Researchers at Brighton and Salford universities argue ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

Laser plasma technology
Spanish research bodies have experimented with plasma and laser treatment to modify leather and add functionality but without affecting its appearance.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

A changing world for leather
New ideas are needed if leather is going to fight off the increasingly strong challenge from synthetic alternatives and regain its place as the material of choice for the footwear ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

Little shoes from the past
A pictorial account of what children’s shoes used to look like, courtesy of the Bata Museum in Toronto, an outstanding legacy of the late Sonja Bata.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

Protecting the shoemaker
Medieval guilds can seem restrictive to the twenty-first century eye, but they controlled quality and costs and protected shoemakers from unfair competition.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

Testing children’s footwear
It can be tempting to cut corners on testing children’s shoes because young feet grow so quickly. SATRA insists that there is no segment for which testing should be taken more...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2018

Comfort in women’s fashion footwear
A range of factors influences the level of comfort a shoe offers. Women’s fashion footwear is especially prone to “comfort compromises”, which can cause the wearer discomfort,...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2018

Stop marketing and start consumering
Sergio Dulio reports on the Mass Customisation and Personalisation Conference (MCPC), which took place in November in Aachen, Germany. It comes at a time when mass customisation...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2018

PUCFs come clean
A study has shown that waterborne polyurethane technologies, such as Covestro’s INSQIN, can offer a more environmentally sustainable solution for the production of PUCFs.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2018

Tight toplines
The key to an elegant women’s court shoe is a well cut topline and there are three major construction methods that can be employed to achieve this. What they have in common is the ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2018

Climate-neutral children’s shoes
Children’s footwear produced in 2017 by advanced materials developer Sympatex carry a certificate to show they are climate-neutral.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2018

RAMS
Sergio Dulio highlights RAMS, a new manufacturing solution that aims to maintain ‘relevant roles’ in the footwear factory to highly skilled people.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2018

The dirty side of slip
Replicating muddy conditions to test the anti-slip properties of outdoor shoes and soling solutions is notoriously difficult, but testing organisation SATRA has developed a new...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2018

Square cows
Biofabrication of materials that mimic leather may give footwear manufacturers some interesting options, not least because the material can be produced on sheets.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2018

First contact - orthotic insoles
The shape and materials of orthotic insoles help make this hidden product a crucial tool for manipulating where load is applied under the foot, Professor Chris Nester from the...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2017

Adhesive films
Adhesive films are proving versatile in the shoe factory, while also offering savings in labour, waste and energy.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2017

Future trends in adhesive technologies
Robotic application of adhesives in the shoe factory will help the industry adapt to the demands of Industry 4.0.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2017

PPE Update
European standards for personal protective equipment have much to say about the role of shoes in keeping first responders safe.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2017

Selecting the correct materials
Price counts, of course, but Steve Rose of SATRA explains that strength, durability, comfort and ease-of-use in the factory must all be key elements of any footwear manufacturer’s ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2017

Shell Cordovan
Shoes made from Shell Cordovan leather are expensive but, with a little care, will keep their beauty for years.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2017

An algal alternative
Shoe component manufacturers are doing the world a favour by putting troublesome algae that form on lakes to commercial use; they can serve as raw material for foam production.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2017

Nanomaterials for footwear applications
As the prospects for using nanomaterials in consumer products increase, research institute INESCOP insists testing for potential toxicity is more important than ever.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2017

3D X-rays in footwear manufacture
New machinery makes small-scale CT scanning of manufactured products, including footwear, a realistic prospect, according to SATRA. Useful for checking that shanks and inserts are ...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2017

3D printing update
With digital manufacturing and Industry 4.0 now making headway, Sergio Dulio says it’s time to consider how the latest developments in 3D printing will affect the footwear sector.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2017

Early detection of mould
New rapid monitoring methods, highlighted by CTC, will help footwear manufacturers detect mould before it hits the surface of shoes.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2017

A circular economy for footwear
Working with a diverse set of industry partners, Portuguese research institute CTCP has launched a project to find more sustainable materials and manufacturing methods for...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2017

Preventing microbial contamination
Footwear construction is complex these days but, as this paper from Spanish technology institute Inescop argues, a large number of different elements offer wide possibilities for...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2017

A new spin on old tyres
Texas-based Austin Rubber is upcycling rubber from used tyres to make shoe soles.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2017

Guaranteed waterproof
The special construction of veldtschoen-type shoes, whose popularity dates back to the nineteenth century, has much still to teach us about how to make shoes water-resistant.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2017

Zero Impact
A strong and long-standing relationship with tanning group Dani gave Italian outdoor footwear brand Aku a head-start in using a new chrome-free leather called Zero Impact.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2017

Another step forward
Portuguese footwear group Kyaia is working with partners, including the Portuguese Footwear Technology Centre (CTCP), to add even smarter data-connecting technology to its earlier ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2017

Leather’s mixed fortunes
Tanners have long assumed that shoe manufacturers would always need leather, but the relationship has begun to appear more fragile.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2017

Stronger insoles for high heels
German research institute FILK has been examining ways to make eye-catching designs for high-heeled shoes as wearable as possible.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2017

Quality and traceability
Shoe brands’ ability to comply with product safety regulations requires good relationships with partners along the entire supply chain, SATRA argues.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2017

What’s the future for manufacturing?
Athletic shoe brands are investing heavily in the most advanced technology they can find to make their footwear production as futuristic as possible.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2017

Global manufacturing update
A breakdown of global footwear production focusing on full-year figures for 2015, when the industry suffered a 3% downturn.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2017

Industry 4.0
The footwear industry is moving towards the fourth industrial revolution, Industry 4.0, in which machines and people share information and digital and physical processes blur.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2017

Lasts for correctly fitting children’s shoes
Accurate knowledge of the development of children’s feet during the different stages of their development up to adulthood forms the basis for the perfect children’s shoe and the...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2016

Managing foot comfort
Stockings and shoes must be considered as a combined system and it should be possible to improve the properties of the system and achieve noticeably better comfort for the wearer.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2016

Striding towards good foot health
When infants take their first steps it is an important milestone for families. It also poses many questions about foot development, footwear and how best to protect and support...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2016

Global sports footwear review
Sports footwear forms an important sector in the industry not only in terms of the quantities involved but also in terms of the technological and marketing developments which ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2016

A link between foot-scanning and lasts
Footwear research centre Inescop has established a new method for scanning the foot, with the data connecting to an archive of digital lasts to let consumers know which lasts, and ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2016

70 years of innovation
Desma is one of the best known machinery names in the footwear industry. From humble beginnings in the aftermath of World War II, it has become a major supplier of sophisticated...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2016

End of the road for EVA?
EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) has been the material of choice for sports shoe midsoles for more than 30 years. Over the same period, sports shoe brands have constantly sought to...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2016

A problem for leather
The rapidly changing face of retail and of the footwear industry, there is a paradigm shift in how footwear is being sold. The high streets and shopping malls, with their multiple ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2016

Proportional injection
Main Group is now starting to fit the new proportional system to all its PU machines.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2016

Measuring hardness
Hardness is one of the simplest and most descriptive of polymer properties. The number of measurement scales available can however cause confusion. The hardness of a material is...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2016

Edible, growable, infinitely resuable
Leather has been the prime shoemaking material for a very long time. Modern technology can help us to use our resources wisely and differently. This was the central theme of the...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

Global safety footwear review
Safety footwear is one of the very few types of footwear which has to meet fairly demanding requirements in terms of national and/or international standards. There has to be a...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

Precision weaving
While Perspair will not be suitable for many types of footwear, it certainly offers some real possibilities for specialist footwear producers aiming at the extreme sports and...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

Sewing yarn numbers
Asewing thread is built up from yarn twists that consist of at least one or, more usually, two or more yarns. How this has been done determines its final properties which are...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

More to the point
The possible combinations of point shape, angle and size of sewing needles is in fact immense and selecting the best option depends on the materials to be sewn, their thickness...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

Threads, needles and seams
Stitching forms a vital part of the construction of most footwear and threads are therefore a key component.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2016

The experiential factory
Experiential factories are places where consumers are exposed to the intricacies of the manufacturing process of the shoes they buy and so can appreciate the true values that...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2016

Managing chrome VI
Last year, European Regulation 301/2014 came into force restricting Chromium VI (hexavalent Chrome) in leather articles. New requirements apply to all products within the scope...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2016

A story worth telling
Shoemaking is a global industry that has developed over centuries on the back of a totally sustainable natural byproduct that is now under attack through deliberate...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2016

Three in one
In recent years, a combination of media and consumer concern has led to increasing pressures on tanners to review certain of their processing operations.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2016

19th UITIC Congress
UITIC’s conferences are recognised as being of great benefit to the industry and feature serious and thought provoking papers for further discussion and development. As only a...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

The blue economy - an alternative strategy
Dr Gunter Pauli, who founded the Zero Emissions Research and Initiatives, concerned about the high unemployment he feels globalisation has caused, his main aim is to find...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

More than one choice
A really concerted push for suede footwear during 2016 would not only bring a major new look to fashion footwear but also help solve a major problem for the leather industry and...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

Robot-human teamworkis the future
Managing director of footwear machinery and robotic systems provider Desma, Klaus Freese, spoke at the 2016 UITIC Congress on the subject of shoes produced by ‘smart’ robots.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

Split leather – some basic facts

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

Sustainability benefits
This article is based on a paper prepared for the 19th UITIC Congress by SATRA’sJohn Hubbard which outlines some benefits in terms of sustainability that can begained in footwear...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2016

A middle way on automation
Automation and robotics technology provider Actis RB System has adapted its approach to the footwear production market in Asia. It is now sure that the right mix of a traditional...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2016

A very special partnership
While Desma is principally known for its advanced injection moulding machines for polyurethane soling systems, it has also been a leading pioneer in the use of automation within...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2016

Global foot size distribution
The difference between purchased shoe size and shoe size predicted by foot length raises some interesting questions, particularly regarding the balance between length fit and...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2016

Supporting Goodyear welted
Starting out 20 years ago, ESM’s early customers were top quality welted manufacturers in the UK, including Crockett & Jones, Church & Co. and Alfred Sargent. It now supplies...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2016

Nanofoot project
Although it is still early days as far as full commercialisation is concerned, Nanofoot has clearly established the potential of using NPs in footwear manufacture and it will be...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2016

Are trends in foot health creating new markets?
The rising numbers of people with diabetes and an ageing population will have implications for shoe design.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2015

Heel height limits for older people
French consulting, research and testing organisation CTC has been working with the French Footwear Federation on ADOCS, a programme of projects to improve the suitability of...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2015

Insocks and comfort
SATRA’s Steve Rose explains the reasons behind insock choices and options for manufacturers.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2015

Understanding feet
The foot’s anatomy and the way it moves and changes are important considerations for shoemakers, and correct lasts are the basis for comfort.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2015

3D printing at work
The July/August 2014 issue of World Footwear contained details of the latest advances in 3D printing. This further article features case histories of applications supported by...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2015

One stop shopping
The global footwear industry continues to grow as demand continues to increase with the rise in both populations and living standards. It is also becoming ever more efficient and...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2015

Why don’t soling materials die?
For many thousands of year’s leather remained the main soling material for all types of footwear with, in certain places, wood, reeds, papyrus, sisal and other natural products...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2015

The function of footwear fasteners
Current footwear styles use fasteners in two ways: firstly as a means of securing the shoe and, secondly, as fashionable design features. As a means of holding the shoe on the...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2015

Kangaroos and alligators
There is also no shortage of customers from around the world prepared to pay whatever it takes to own a pair of Sorrell boots, as in the case of the client who flew in from...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2015

The road to servitisation
Servitisation is often viewed as the way in which firms provide an integrated package of both goods and services or add extra service components to their core offering. A...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2015

A future perspective
At a conference in Bordeaux earlier this year, up to a billion extra square-feet of finished leather may be required to satisfy the increasing demand for leather upholstery in...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2015

Assembling and disassembling
Aly Khalifa is the founder of Designbox, a product and graphic design company based in Raleigh N.C. that is dedicated to ‘design innovation and inventive culture’. Having designed ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2015

Looking to a bright future
The radical changes in fortune for the world’s footwear industry since the coming of globalisation has led to much disquiet as to what the future might hold. Would Asian countries ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2015

Technology poles and leather clusters
Cluster networking refers to a way of coordinating or, better still, synergistically integrating the activities of different players involved in a value chain. Technology poles,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2015

Future of footwear recycling
The world’s first footwear recycling system was developed by a team of researchers lead by Professor Shahin Rahimifard at the Centre for Sustainable Manufacturing and Recycling...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2015

Going for green
The footwear industry, is merely part of a chain stretching from basic raw material to final user. The leather it widely uses as an upper material starts out with the farmer and...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2015

The changing face of leather
For just about as long as recorded history, leather has been the staple material for footwear production, whether it was the shoes Ötzi was wearing while running away from his...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2015

Nanotechnological footwear
Nanotechnology involves the study and application of extremely small things and can be applied across all the other science fields, such as chemistry, biology, physics, materials...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2015

The importance of testing
The world of footwear manufacturing never stands still, with shoe makers and sourcing companies always looking to improve competitiveness and gain market share. As result,...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2015

Interesting... but giving the wrong impression
The conversion of raw skins into leather, among the earliest of crafts, has now evolved into a sophisticated and technically developed industry.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2015

Continued fluidity of global manufacturing
With the global economy gradually recovering over the past two years, it is an appropriate time to consider the implications for the footwear industry in terms of where it finds...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2015

Hyper-cutters
Cutting and its related technologies are among the topics that are most often cited as a demonstration of how shoe making has evolved since the dawn of the first industrial...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2015

Personalised insoles using 3D printing
3D printing is opening up new possibilities for shoe design and manufacture. It is also a process where advances are being made at a rapid rate as more experience is gained and an ...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2015

Polyolefins could set new standards
The footwear industry is an interesting environment as it is a great market for the introduction and testing of new ideas, products and manufacturing processes. This is because...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2015

Who's to blame?
In a survey, 62% of people were unaware that shoes were available in different width fittings.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2014

'Greener' PUCFs
More and more shoes are being made using synthetic upper materials, particularly PU-coated fabrics (PUCFs) where China is by far the largest producer. While PUCF uppers might not...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2014

Integrated polyurethane footwear
When designing footwear, a wealth of technical considerations have to be considered including grip, abrasion resistance, shock absorption, cushioning and ankle joint support, etc. ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2014

Shoes for senior citizens
The increasing number of people over 50 years of age in western countries is the result of a falling birth rate and the fact that people are living longer. It is estimated that by ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2014

Avoiding heel failures
Solid and securely attached heels are of vital importance on ladies dress shoes and, the higher the heel, the more difficult this becomes due to the small size of both the...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2014

Low pressure mixing of PU
Although there have not been any major developments in footwear soling systems announced recently (there are several ongoing but not yet ready for publication), this does not mean ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2014

Rubber has so much to offer
Rubber is regarded as being of superior quality to any other non-leather soling. While this is not always strictly true, it is nevertheless a good cachet to have and one that also ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2014

Parameters for orthopaedic footbeds
We are all living longer and while this is a welcome development it has, like all things, come at a price, part of which is steadily increasing cost pressures on our healthcare...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2014

Advances in 3D printing
3D printing has become an increasingly widespread and fashionable topic of discussion as more and more people begin to appreciate its potential. Having said that, few know much...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2014

Chrome or vegetable?
There has been much debate in recent years over chrome versus vegetable tanning and the risk of chrome VI (hexavalent chromium) being present in footwear. Several new tannages...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2014

Restricted substances in leather
Managing restricted substances policies and getting the best out of testing budgets is becoming an increasingly important factor for footwear retailers, manufacturers and...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2014

All the world needs leather
The volume of hides and skins coming as a by-product from the global meat industry is truly enormous. Figures suggest the meat industry generates no fewer than 240 million cattle...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2014

Reducing the carbon footprint
Global warming, climate change and greenhouse gas emissions have now become terms of everyday life and topics of concern and discussion worldwide.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2014

Mass customisation and sustainability
Mass customisation is a business model that 'inherently' leads to sustainability, provided that some basic implementation choices are made correctly, there is a general perception ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2014

Recycling materials from worn shoes
It is a widely held view that material recycling is often the best means of dealing with discarded shoes that are potentially unsuitable for reuse. However, for the long-term...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2014

Sustainability and the confused customer
Consumers are confused by the label of 'sustainability'. It requires long term thinking and stamina. Sustainable shoes and their sustainable production consequently call for...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2014

Next generation of virtual shoe design
At the 16th UITIC Conference at Elche in 2008, a report on the status of a research project concerning virtual shoe design being carried out by the Test and Research Institute...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2014

Predicting growth of children's feet
Current facilities in retail shops for children's footwear using cashiers with computers and operational memory would make it possible to introduce a simple system providing...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2014

18th UITIC Congress
The 18th International Technical Footwear Congress of UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) was held in Guangzhau, China in November 2013 and it attracted a...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2014

Ensuring worker safety
Health and safety should not be seen as an additional requirement for factories but as a demonstration of the commitment to a lean and efficient working environment.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2014

Effective footwear manufacture
More than 75% of the world’s footwear production is now in Asia, a large proportion of which is exported for distribution in North America and Europe. All of today’s manufacturers ...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2014

Nano-membranes
Lighter and finer than conventional extruded films, non-woven membranes, made using a manufacturing technique called electrospinning, may be the next big thing in water...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2014

Where is PU as a soling material?
Polyurethane has now been available as a soling material for over 40 years, having first been introduced in the early 1970s. This was in fact a decade when three important new...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2014

The future for leather supply
Leather remains the upper material of choice for the vast majority of shoes produced in the world today. But, with all the pressures resulting from concerns over climate change,...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2014

Shoes in a spin
The development of polyurethane-based breathable membrane technology some thirty years ago changed the invention of vulcanised rubber, as it combined resistance to water from the...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2013

New solutions to old problems
Klöckner Desma, ever an innovator, has now taken a further step in its automated soling ‘concept’ by developing a robotic upper processing cell to run alongside its existing sole...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2013

Choosing the right shoe
Consumers are faced with three dilemmas. The first is choice, then the second is size. This brings us to the third; comfort. The answer to this lies in foot scanners and...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2013

Safety footwear developments
At the end of the day, the most appropriate series of standards for a manufacturer to test against and be in accordance with will depend on where in the world the footwear is...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2013

Born in the USA
The United States of America can truly be said to have been the main driving force behind the mechanisation of the footwear business. With a large domestic population it also...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2013

A complete solution
Water has become an increasingly precious resource in many parts of the world. As a result, large industrial users have come under intense pressure to either change their...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2013

Lasts
Producing lasts on which to make shoes that can encompass such variations as this is demanding in the extreme. It is no wonder that last making has always been one of the most...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2013

Making it stick
Adhesives are used in a wide number of applications in the manufacture of footwear. The major ones, together with the most important types of adhesive used in each case, are shown ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2013

Something old, something new
Bonded leather is both strong and supple, so the counter will give enough support in the right places while also adapting to the shape of the foot.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2013

Creators and makers
In a vision of a possible future, shoe manufacturers in fact become ‘design creators’ and consumers the ‘makers’ of the products they buy and consume, quite a genetic mutation in...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2013

Hidden dilemmas
A good personal working relationship between supplier and customer is essential in producing a bespoke product. Clients who expect all the input to come from the other side not...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2013

Only time will tell
The past 40 years has seen a dramatic shift in footwear manufacture from West to East mainly in a quest to reduce costs. It has also seen the development of a range of soling...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2013

Developing the modern toe laster
We have come a long way from the old shoemaker sitting at his bench and lasting each shoe by hand. One wonders what he would think of today’s state-of-the-art lasting machines...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2013

Lean, green and clean
If factories can become leaner, their processes greener and the shoes they produce generally cleaner, the footwear industry will undoubtedly take an impressive step forward. It...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2013

Sustainable footwear
There are a number of initiatives within the footwear industry which lead towards the greater utilisation of sustainable materials and to footwear with eco-design features....

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2013

Dieless cutting — an update
Despite affirmation of its viability as a production procedure, maturity of its design and dramatic technological advances, dieless cutting although now out of its infancy is...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2013

Leather tests at a glance
Leather is infinitely variable depending on the type of hide, fibre structure, tannage and grain surface. It is therefore essential to fully understand any leather before using it ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2013

Primary patterns
Paper patterns or written rules for calculating sizes and patterns did not exist as they could be stolen and used by anyone wishing to set up as a rival. Today, we only need to...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2013

Materials keeping ahead
At one time the choice of upper materials available to shoemakers was limited to leather and natural woven fibres such as cotton. That choice is now extremely wide and includes...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2013

Innovations at Atlanta
Automation has become a keyword in the equation of containing costs while still pursuing the highest possible quality. PU direct injection has the potential to eliminate more than ...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2013

What’s new in soling?
Vibram has enjoyed an outstanding reputation for high performance rubber soles in demanding applications ever since its first, and probably most famous, product—the Carrarmato...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2013

Oak bark soles
For thousands of years leather was produced using plant extracts and other natural materials. Over time, some were shown to produce better results than others. The bark from...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2013

Vulcanised rubber
Natural rubber has been known for hundreds of years. In its natural form, it was not suitable for use in footwear as it was too elastic, became sticky in hot conditions and hard...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2013

CSR and sustainability
CSR is not just about offering good working conditions for employees, but a fundamental approach to business that encompasses a totally responsible approach in every facet of...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2012

CSR at a glance
Improvement in living standards relies mainly on economic development. It has gathered pace such that for the vast majority of people it bears little comparison with that of even...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2012

Perplexed by Puma
Our focus in this issue on sustainability makes it imperative for us to consider recent comments from one of the world’s most prominent athletic footwear brands, Puma, on the...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2012

Sustainability must be balanced
While the ongoing pursuit of sustainability and support for the environment is laudable and must continue, it must nevertheless be treated in a pragmatic and balanced manner.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2012

PVC: confronting the environmental challenge
While PVCs long-term future—like that of anything else in life—cannot be guaranteed, there is still some way to go before this ubiquitous soling material can be written off.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2012

Shoemaking’s ‘big bang’
While the welted process now occupies only a very small and exclusive niche in the footwear market it was, nevertheless, its introduction in the early 16th century that created...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2012

Turning full circle
The fact that machinery manufacturers have been able to combine the strengths of electronic NC control with sophisticated engineering may well have sounded the death knell for the ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2012

Versatile PU
The extraordinary versatility of polyurethane appears to have no limits and the material will doubtless find further applications in footwear manufacture in the future.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2012

An update on footwear robotics
In the future, robotics may therefore see a higher density of machines of a new generation, re-establishing the balance between labour and capital intensity in a way that will...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2012

Keeping up with the footwear manufacturer
The changes in footwear manufacture have been matched by the changes that have occurred in the production of leather. Some of the developments are similar to both industries but...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2012

Hidden changes
There has been change, not in the way things are done but in the threads that are now available. Once, it was a simple choice between nylon and polyester. Now, new generations of...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2012

High tech, high touch, revolutions, evolutions
“The most reliable way to forecast the future is to try to understand the present,” so claimed John Naisbitt, a US writer known for his visions of the future: it is what we will...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2012

The essentials of training
It is only to be expected that new levels of expertise and practical skills will in turn generate an appetite for progress and promotion. Failure to recognise this will merely...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2012

Protecting your name
It has been said that in today’s market it is highly unlikely that anyone could make the same impact now with a footwear component as the long-established brands we look at here....

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2012

From roughing brush to laser
Whichever way you look at it,manufacturers still rely on what is essentially 20th century technology in the form of a roughing brush or tool. Laser roughing, on the other hand, is ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2012

Specialist inserts
Contourex 3D footbeds can even be shaped on either side to match both the underside of the foot and the inside of the shoe, including individual lettering, logos and profiles if...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2012

Comfort from the inside out
OrthoLite, with headquarters in the U.S.A., is a major volume producer of moulded foam inserts for footwear. Its particular forte is its ability to quickly create products...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

Recycling where least expected
Among the most overlooked components of a shoe are the toe puff and counter yet, in most instances, they are essential for preserving its shape, providing protection to the...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

Manufacturing in Europe
The European Union’s strict environmental controls, high labour costs and increasingly restrictive employment laws have prompted many manufacturing companies in the footwear...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

Are we missing out on something?
The use of Celliant technology in sports apparel has grown of late and is now beginning a move into sports shoes in the form of linings and insoles. Some positive test results...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

A pioneer of recycling
The fragility of the earth we live upon and the damage that has been inflicted on it by over exploitation by industry and farming during the last century can be staggering. While...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

Starting out on the right foot
Much has been made of western companies setting the pace for using recycled materials and environmentally friendly methods of manufacture. This is of course not entirely true....

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2012

Putting a bounce into walking
The idea of designing footwear with comfort as the primary aim really started with the sports shoe phenomenon of the latter part of the last century. Wearers found the shock...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2012

Building on experience
The first man-made plastic was invented in Britain by Alexander Parkes in 1861. Called Parkesine, it was a cellulose derivative that could be heated, moulded and, when cool, would ...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2012

Flexibility from DESMA
German machine manufacturer Desma has always been a major innovator, particularly in the field of PU and TPU moulding machines. While the basic technologies of injection moulding...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2012

Don’t slip up
Slippery floors, occur everywhere in the world and are an everyday hazard for people working in hotels, kitchens, restaurants and laundries. They can take the form of wet or...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2012

A philosophy for success
he Harman Group with its headquarters in India’s economic and financial capital Mumbai is a major player in the supply side of India’s footwear and leathergoods industry. India's...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2011

Footwear fundamentals: defining foot comfort
In numerous shoe surveys conducted over the years, comfort has always topped the list of desirable features for consumers. Comfort, however, is an extremely complex concept to...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2011

Leather still top for Italian shoes
The volume and value of Italian exports of shoes made from synthetic material are on the rise. However, ANCI says Made in Italy will always be more associated with leather than...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2011

Shoes go digital
The first contacts of the shoe industry with the digital domain date back many years to when personal computers and graphic workstations first appeared. Since then, the drift from ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2011

Footwear Fundamentals: Safety first
he global market for safety footwear is immense and,as many developing countries become more industrialised, it continues to grow. With the global expansion of footwear...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2011

Sazi puts its energy into inteligent new line
Brazilian footwear machinery manufacturer Sazi has launched a new version of its Intelligent line of machines, offering savings in energy consumption that it believes can quickly...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2011

A step back in time
In the March/April issue of World Footwear, an article on Prize Boots looked at the high degree of skill possessed by English shoemakers in the first half of the 19th century. The ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2011

A new sustainable fibre
Cindy Strangl, general manager of Faytex,the producer of DriLex moisture management shoe linings, started to wait a new fibre from DuPont. It is called Triexta and it represents a ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2011

A new revolution in tanning?
In recent years, we have noticed a trend among some shoe manufacturers, who put their faith in veg-tanned leathers, to claim a green marketing tag for their product. That there...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2011

Chrome VI in leather
John Hubbard of the SATRA Technology Centre reviews the formation of hexavalent chromium in leather as it is currently understood.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2011

Footwear fundamentals: finishing the job
Sixty years ago, the word 'finishing' referred to the sequence of operations that followed sole attaching in the traditional shoemaking process. Now, the traditional 'finishing...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2011

Flat-pack footwear
Although well suited to reasonably-priced furniture from a certain Scandinavian retailer, the flat-pack concept is not something that can be applied to most other consumer...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2011

European robotic project makes progress
Research centres, technology providers and two footwear manufacturers are working together to find ways of using robotics to make high-end fashion footwear in the most efficient...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2011

Building healthy feet
A child's foot adapts to the developing skeleton and its constant postural changes. The natural development of young feet is greatly influenced by the footwear that is worn...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2011

Is mass customisation of footwear realistic?
Shoe making is a fairly traditional business. There have only been a few truly radical changes in terms of manufacturing approach or organisation and business models. The concept...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2011

Footwear fundamentals: patterns vary in size
Without grading the upper shoe patterns to achieve all the different sizes, shoemaking as we know it would not be possible.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2011

Making life easier
An obvious synergy existed between the Delcam and CRISPIN so, in 2007, Delcam acquired the CRISPIN business to create Delcam CRISPIN with the aim of providing a range of products...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2011

Walking on a billboard
A young entrepreneur based in Michigan, US, recently launched ‘upcycled’ footwear made from old billboards as an alternative to going barefoot.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2011

Prize boots
Until the advent of mass-produced boots and shoes in the late 19th century, even small villages in the British Isles would have had some form of shoemaker. Some were naturally...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2011

Low labour costs or full automation?
Conventional footwear production is labour intensive. It must be carried out billions of times in a reproducible manner if the global demand for footwear is to be met. It also...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2011

Reducing costs on sports shoes
Desma has used a combination of robotics and advanced materials to create new production concepts.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2011

Footwear fundamentals: shoelaces
Laces have traditionally been regarded as an incidental item but they are now frequently a key feature of the overall shoe concept, even to the point of carrying the brand logo.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2011

There is nothing new in High-Heel shoes
The Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto has just concluded an exhibition that looked in the closest possible detail at the development of the high-heel shoe from its origins in the...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2010

Cooperative Robotics
The problems peculiar to the footwear industry, coupled with the high capital investment involved, has meant that, with the exception of direct injection soling, the use of robots ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2010

Stitching soles came first
Of all the methods that are now available for attaching soles to lasted uppers, the oldest by far is using thread to produce a mechanical join. Thread is still essential for sole...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2010

Veg or Non-Veg?
In a previous article, we reported on the presentation made by the vice-president of product development and product application for specialty chemicals provider Lanxess at this...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2010

Ideas flow for watersports footwear
Two iconic footwear brands with a penchant for leisure in and around water have come up with new ideas to keep product innovation flowing.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2010

INJECTION MOULDING
Injection moulding has been described as a process by which a polymer is softened by heat before being injected into a mould, from which it is ejected once it has set to the shape ...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2010

CREATING YOUR OWN LAST
The recently released updated version of Delcam CRISPIN’s LastMaker software has opened up further possibilities for footwear manufacturers wishing develop or modify lasts...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2010

Five point leather grading
A key factor in the efficient cutting of leather is to ensure it is up to the agreed specification. Tanners and shoemakers are increasingly working together to achieve this as...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2010

Soling adhesives
The first adhesives to successfully bond a sole to the upper entirely on their own appeared in the 1940s and were based on nitrile or polychloroprene rubbers dissolved in solvents.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2010

Zipperless zips
The rise of hook-and-loop fastenings in footwear applications.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2010

Footwear Fundamentals Sticking Together
An adhesive is a substance used to bond two opposing surfaces together and to then resist them from being separated. The ability to do this is determined by its strength, the...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2010

Colourfast Nubucks and Suedes
Fashion trends come and go; colours, shapes and cuts change with the seasons. It is therefore good that some old favourites such as nubuck and suede leathers never change. They...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

A lack of skills holds India back
India is the world's second largest producer of footwear after China and is still growing. Its domestic footwear market in particular has expanded significantly in recent years....

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

Running on clouds
Swiss company On has come up with a footwear technology that absorbs both vertical and horizontal forces on the foot while running. On was the overall winner of this year’s ispo...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

Footwear Fundamentals - Quality or Yield?
Cutting the components of a leather shoe upper demands a wide range of skills, not the least of which is balancing quality with yield. It could equally be referred to as balancing ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

Taking the sting out of stinky shoes
A start-up company in the US has devised a new footwear product made from a very old material. Stuffits, no matter whether the climate is wet or dry, hot or cold, and no matter...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

‘WHYWASTEIT’
Upper materials form a significant proportion of the cost of a finished shoe, so minimising cutting waste is critical to remaining competitive. Listed here are eleven key factors...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2010

Footwear Fundamentals - All About Lasting
The word ‘last’ comes from the Old English word ‘laest’, meaning a footprint or foot shape and from the Old Norse word ‘leistr’, meaning a foot. A last is a three dimensional...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2010

Colourfast Unlined Shoes
Footwear can be both lined and unlined depending on the style and purpose. Unlined moccasins and sandals, in particular, are comfortable to wear simply because they are so...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2010

Polyurethane Has So Much To Offer
In his address to the 2009 CPI Conference, leading soling material consultant Steve Lee of Steve Lee Associates remarked that polyurethane has failed to increase its market share...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2010

Footwear fundamentals: last in line
How lasts convert two-dimensional materials into a three-dimensional shoe shape.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2009

Colour choices
A wider range of colours for unlined shoes is available thanks to technology developments in the footwear industry.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2009

Greener options
Bio-based colour dispersions are now available to offer a number of advantages to footwear manufacturers.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2009

What’s in a stitch? Part 1
We still sew shoe upper sections together? For three good reasons. With most traditional shoemaking materials it is still the best and most flexible way to join them, lasting is...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2009

A word of warning: part one
Dimethyl fumarate is the methyl ester of fumaric acid and can be used to treat certain medical conditions. While not quite in the same category as ‘hazardous’ substances such as...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

A word of warning: part one
Dimethyl fumarate is the methyl ester of fumaric acid and can be used to treat certain medical conditions. While not quite in the same category as ‘hazardous’ substances such as...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

A word of warning: part two
Dimethyl fumarate is the methyl ester of fumaric acid and can be used to treat certain medical conditions. While not quite in the same category as ‘hazardous’ substances such as...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

A word of warning: part two
Dimethyl fumarate is the methyl ester of fumaric acid and can be used to treat certain medical conditions. While not quite in the same category as ‘hazardous’ substances such as...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

TPU GOES GREEN
Since its inception in the 19th century, the chemical industry has been using ‘old’ carbon taken from fossil resources, especially oil. It has used it to produce products such as...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

WHICH CONSTRUCTION? Part 2
In part one, we looked at the historical development of footwear constructions and dealt specifically with the welted, veldtschoen and cemented methods. These all need lasting...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

QUESTIONS OVER CUSHIONING: Part two
Biomechanical studies carried out at the German Sport University in Cologne into the use of cushioning in sports shoes have revealed surprising results.

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2009

House and home
A report on the Desma House Fair 2008, at which the footwear production systems provider hosted partner companies and visitors from across the globe for an exhibition, live...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2008

Polyurethane and the soling market
The choice of materials to use for soles has never been greater.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2008

Waterjet cutting could open doors in China
The potential benefits to footwear manufacturers of water-jet cutting, explained by Portuguese solutions provider Zipor.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2008

Construction materials
Part one of a two-part paper in Footwear Fundamentals series offering guidance on how to choose the best construction for the shoes you want to manufacture.

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2008

Tannery on tap
Ecco expands its integrated model - with footwear factory and tannery side by side - to its facility in Xiamen, China.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

Moisture management
SATRA's advanced test can help manufacturers make shoes more comfortable.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

Building on the right foundation
Goodyear welted construction's new lease of life.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

Footwear fundamentals: Upper materials
Still number one: why there is still nothing to touch leather for shoe uppers.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

What constitutes a waterproof shoe?
P2i's ion-mask technology really does seem to offer significant improvements over previous methods for making shoes water resistant.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

What constitutes a waterproof shoe?
P2i's ion-mask technology really does seem to offer significant improvements over previous methods for making shoes water resistant.

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2008

New tools in the battle against complexity
Brazlian components manufacturer Artecola tackles time and materials wastage in the footwear industry.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2008

The world needs more shoes
Technology provider Lectra launches a new version of its Romans software in an attempt to help the industry meet the demands of a growing world population.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2008

Footwear fundamentals: understanding patterns
Shoe upper patterns have always been something of a mystery to most people in the industry at large and a bone of contention in the factories themselves.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2008

Medieval shoemaking
How our forebears went about making footwear with the limited technology available to them in the Middle Ages.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2008

Technology - the industry's future
A round-up of some of the IT tools currently in use for designing and constructing a last.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2008

An answer to changing teenage tastes
Everyone dreams of having a ‘eureka’ moment at some point, experiencing a life-changing flash of brilliant thinking. This often happens in the bath, where water helps people...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2008

Brazil’s gift to the footwear industry
Natural rubber has played a key roll in the development of the footwear industry and is still used in a wide variety of products. Millions of children grew up in the twentieth...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2008

CREATING A GOOD PRODUCT
There was a time when producing a shoe was simply a case of choosing from a limited number of traditional upper designs, deciding on the upper leather to be used, cutting patterns ...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2008

IDEAS MAN SAYS FOOTWEAR IS A SPECIAL CASE
Apparently, it’s easy to come up with a good idea. You might expect Spencer White to take another view because, during his time as director of advanced technology at athletic...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2008

Vietnam: will the new Sourcing Centre Happen?
The authorities in the southern province of Binh Duong insist a massive new all-under-one-roof sourcing centre for the footwear industry will open its doors to shoe manufacturers...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

CAD Systems can help Indian Manufacturers Progress
Footwear manufacturers in India have a great chance of improving their share of the world market in the coming years, but experts believe a huge investment in technology may be...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

Footwear Fundamentals: It all starts with the feet
The foot is a highly complex part of the body, containing 26 bones, 107 ligaments and 19 muscles that combine to allow us to move around. Understanding how this complex structure ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

Footwear Fundamentals: It all starts with the feet
The foot is a highly complex part of the body, containing 26 bones, 107 ligaments and 19 muscles that combine to allow us to move around. Understanding how this complex structure ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

City of Shoes
A fascinating insight into one of the main centres of footwear production in India, the city of Agra, which still has tiny production units scattered throughout its narrow streets ...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

From Tanners to Shoemakers
How some of the major players on the Indian, Asian and world scene began as, and continue to be, tanners. Their expertise with, and ready supply of, the principal raw material...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

Who Needs Lasting Machines?
Why computer-controlled lasting machines and a skilled workforce to operate them are essential in the production of most dress and fashion shoes, regardless of whether they...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

The life of soles
Lyon-based footwear testing institute CTC has developed a method of digitally simulating the famous Bennewart test for soiling material.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2008

Companies act to keep Chromium VI out
A magazine called marktXL, a consumer affairs title published by Cologne-based broadcaster Westdeutscher Rundfunk (WDR), does not mess around. One of the thorny subjects it has...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Companies act to keep Chromium VI out
A magazine called marktXL, a consumer affairs title published by Cologne-based broadcaster Westdeutscher Rundfunk (WDR), does not mess around. One of the thorny subjects it has...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Companies act to keep Chromium VI out
A magazine called marktXL, a consumer affairs title published by Cologne-based broadcaster Westdeutscher Rundfunk (WDR), does not mess around. One of the thorny subjects it has...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Footwear Fundamentals: Leather – the essential raw material
Leather is our oldest shoemaking material. From the earliest hunter-gatherers down to the modern day, animals’ flesh has formed an important part of man’s diet and their skins a...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Footwear Fundamentals: Leather – the essential raw material
Leather is our oldest shoemaking material. From the earliest hunter-gatherers down to the modern day, animals’ flesh has formed an important part of man’s diet and their skins a...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Don’t lose your bottle, recycle it and wear it
Few people have ever considered walking down the street wearing plastic water bottles or car tyres on their feet and even fewer would pick either as their first choice for...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Don’t lose your bottle, recycle it and wear it
Few people have ever considered walking down the street wearing plastic water bottles or car tyres on their feet and even fewer would pick either as their first choice for...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Waterproof boots give Deco a boost
A game of football can be won by a single moment of genius from star players. When the dead-ball specialist steps up to attempt to curl a free kick over the wall and into the...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Waterproof boots give Deco a boost
A game of football can be won by a single moment of genius from star players. When the dead-ball specialist steps up to attempt to curl a free kick over the wall and into the...

World Footwear - 01 - Jan/Feb 2008

Skills of the hand clicker
Modern computer nesting systems are helping shoe manufacturers to achieve ever better use of their upper leather. However, the concept of a maximum yield cutting system is by no...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Skills of the hand clicker
Modern computer nesting systems are helping shoe manufacturers to achieve ever better use of their upper leather. However, the concept of a maximum yield cutting system is by no...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Shoemaking in the future
Industrial robots first appeared in the footwear industry some 20 years ago and, since then, have played an increasingly important role in reducing costs and improving quality....

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Plasma technology for preparing soles
Manufacturers in all sectors have become obliged by law to reduce their emissions of Organic Volatile Compounds (VOCs). In the footwear industry, one of the main sources of VOCs...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Pre-cemented soles
Moulded sole units have been around for a long time and are used on most fashion footwear and a good many sports and casual shoes as well. While not as cheap as direct bottoming,...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

General Products Safety Directive
The potential safety risks that users are exposed to in regard to many everyday items are covered by European Directives such as the Toy Safety Directive, the PPE directive or the ...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Adhesives in footwear — Part 1: Sole Bonding
Many shoemaking operations involve the use of adhesives of which there is wide range, including latex, polychloroprenes, polyurethanes, hot melts, pressure sensitive adhesives,...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

A breakthrough in waterproof footwear?
A small UK company believes that it may have developed something that could revolutionise the outdoor footwear sector. There have been many companies in the past who have rushed...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

A breakthrough in waterproof footwear?
A small UK company believes that it may have developed something that could revolutionise the outdoor footwear sector. There have been many companies in the past who have rushed...

World Footwear - 06 - Nov/Dec 2007

Does CAD make better pattern cutters?
CAD/CAM systems have had a major impact on how pattern cutters work over the last 15-20 years with their convenience of use and transferability of data, speed and accuracy. But,...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Does CAD make better pattern cutters?
CAD/CAM systems have had a major impact on how pattern cutters work over the last 15-20 years with their convenience of use and transferability of data, speed and accuracy. But,...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Making the grade
In the 1980s, the footwear industries of the major Western economies began to feel the impact of inexpensive shoe imports from Asia and other areas. The problem was not limited to ...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

DSSP opens new horizons
Timberland has become something of a cultural icon as well as a leading brand. Amid all this hype, it is easy to overlook the fact that the company is also something of a...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

DSSP opens new horizons
Timberland has become something of a cultural icon as well as a leading brand. Amid all this hype, it is easy to overlook the fact that the company is also something of a...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Choosing a lasting machine
Most people go for cement lasting for foreparts, cement and/or tacks for waists, and tacks for the seat. There is a wide choice of machinery and selection depends not only on...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Comfort for the sweating foot
Heavy sweating or perspiring is a consequence of all strenuous physical activity. This is an unavoidable fact and an essential physiological reaction. Mike Wilson from UK...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Comfort for the sweating foot
Heavy sweating or perspiring is a consequence of all strenuous physical activity. This is an unavoidable fact and an essential physiological reaction. Mike Wilson from UK...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Comfort for the sweating foot
Heavy sweating or perspiring is a consequence of all strenuous physical activity. This is an unavoidable fact and an essential physiological reaction. Mike Wilson from UK...

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Test methods in Brief—Number 10
Colour fastness of leather to water

World Footwear - 05 - Sep/Oct 2007

Flexibility in footwear
Beside statements of fashion, shoes have an important protective function to fulfil. The higher the potential negative influences such as heat, cold and mechanical impact, the...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Flexibility in footwear
Beside statements of fashion, shoes have an important protective function to fulfil. The higher the potential negative influences such as heat, cold and mechanical impact, the...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

The insole’s progress
The insole is the foundation for almost all types of footwear other than those with moccasin type constructions. It provides a stable platform to which the upper can be fixed...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Measuring the interior volume of footwear
An essential factor in creating comfort in footwear is that of achieving a balance between the interior volume of a shoe and the foot itself. As, until now, no precise system to...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Measuring the interior volume of footwear
An essential factor in creating comfort in footwear is that of achieving a balance between the interior volume of a shoe and the foot itself. As, until now, no precise system to...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

The story of rubber in footwear
An insight into how and why rubber became such an important material in footwear.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

The story of rubber in footwear
An insight into how and why rubber became such an important material in footwear.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Slip and grip
While good grip is an advantage for everyday walking, it is essential for most sporting activities. SATRA slip specialist Mike Wilson looks at the elements that must be considered ...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Slip and grip
While good grip is an advantage for everyday walking, it is essential for most sporting activities. SATRA slip specialist Mike Wilson looks at the elements that must be considered ...

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Vulcanised rubber (part 2)
In this, the second of a two-part article, World Footwear looks at the machinery needed to process natural rubber into vulcanised.

World Footwear - 04 - Jul/Aug 2007

Technology: Biomechanical abrasion resistance tester
In footwear testing, it has long been an ambition to invent a 'walking machine' capable of behaving exactly like the human foot so that shoes can be tested as realistically as...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Biomechanical abrasion resistance tester
In footwear testing, it has long been an ambition to invent a 'walking machine' capable of behaving exactly like the human foot so that shoes can be tested as realistically as...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Machinery & systems: SIMAC - Marking time or going under?
SIMAC ran together with Tanning Tech for the first time this year, but is the show likely to survive? World Footwear looks at the prducts on offer at this year's fair.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Test methods in brief: Number 9
Colour fastness of leather to rubbing.

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Putting the boot in
Testing for water resistance in footwear has always presented problems and when military boots become involved the high standards required call for the most stringent testing,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Putting the boot in
Testing for water resistance in footwear has always presented problems and when military boots become involved the high standards required call for the most stringent testing,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Putting the boot in
Testing for water resistance in footwear has always presented problems and when military boots become involved the high standards required call for the most stringent testing,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Putting the boot in
Testing for water resistance in footwear has always presented problems and when military boots become involved the high standards required call for the most stringent testing,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Technology: Putting the boot in
Testing for water resistance in footwear has always presented problems and when military boots become involved the high standards required call for the most stringent testing,...

World Footwear - 03 - May/Jun 2007

Flattening boot vamps
Flattening a boot vamp is associated with changing the shape of a pattern by a procedure that is not well defined but, according to experienced patter cutter Tony Garley,...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Changing dimensions
One of the most important tools in shoe production is the last and, although there are no compulsory last standards, specific control measurements are vital.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Changing dimensions
One of the most important tools in shoe production is the last and, although there are no compulsory last standards, specific control measurements are vital.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Changing dimensions
One of the most important tools in shoe production is the last and, although there are no compulsory last standards, specific control measurements are vital.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

The Eco-Concept in footwear
French footwear research organisation CTC Groupe is conducting a three-year project based on an 'Eco-Concept' in order to find ways for all manufacturers to produce better...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Making a better welted shoe
In the Goodyear welted process thare are some key operations that clearly demonstrate why so much skill and attention to detail is required to produce the best results.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Making a better welted shoe
In the Goodyear welted process thare are some key operations that clearly demonstrate why so much skill and attention to detail is required to produce the best results.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Polyester PU with enhanced hydrolysis resistance
A new solution to the problem of hydrolysis and poor resistance to ageing under humid conditions.

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Colour fastness of leather to perspiration
Test Methods in Brief: Number 8

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Vulcanised rubber (Part 1)
Why is vulcanised rubber such an important soling material in the footwear industry? In this, the first of a two-part feature article World Footwear looks at its background and...

World Footwear - 02 - Mar/Apr 2007

Machinery and systems: Future applications for polyurethanes
Polyurethane is an increasingly vital material in footwear production. To find out more about how the applications for PU could develop, World Footwear asked Bayer MaterialScience ...