Modern toe puff and counter technology
Both components were originally cut from veg-tanned leather, soaked in water to soften them, pasted into the upper, lasted while still moist and then left for a few days to dry out. Increasing mechanisation created faster turn around times for the lasting process and so alternatives were developed. Toe puffs cut from a relatively soft cotton ply base impregnated with celluloid and activated with acetone were easy to last and provided a strong toe with good shape definition. The only problem was that they still needed time to dry out. Counters saw leather replaced by leather board which could be pre-moulded to match the heel of the last and produced a very strong and accurate backpart to the shoe. They are in fact still used for the best ladies shoes for that very reason.
