Nike’s new knitted ranges demonstrate a move towards cutting labour

18/07/2013
Sportswear group Nike has launched two new running designs that are designed to "enhance runners’ natural abilities" and which fit the company’s recently discussed strategy of “engineering labour out of the product”.

The Nike Free Flyknit is a fusion of the compressive Flyknit upper and the flexible Nike Free outsole, which “brings the foot closer to the sole for enhanced propulsion”, according to Sean McDowell, creative director for Nike Running. Nike’s research scientists employed pressure-mapping technology to locate stress areas, and designers used the data to create the new upper. By knitting a one-piece upper, Nike Flyknit construction reduces the typical upper waste by an average of 88%, said the company.

The Nike Free Hyperfeel features a Lunarlon insole with flex grooves which allows the foot to have contact with the Lunarlon cushioning. The waffle outsole is ultra-thin, allowing the foot to get closer to the ground. The research lab used high-speed film to analyse the foot in motion. "Nike Free Hyperfeel has fewer total shoe parts and places the foot directly on top of responsive Lunarlon foam,” says Tony Bignell, vice-president of Nike Footwear Innovation. “The shoe acts as extension of the foot and delivers a natural motion sensation for the runner.”

The upper’s seamless construction significantly reduces the number of shoe components: A typical Air Pegasus running shoe is made up of 57 components while the Nike Free Hyperfeel has just seven.

Boosting the number of ranges that use the knitted upper technique is part of Nike’s cost-cutting strategy to reduce the reliance of labour and cut costs, as discussed by senior executives during the company’s recent investors’ call.