Reimagining fabrics for footwear
Over the last decade there has been a steady rise in the growth of footwear with flexible woven or knitted uppers, particularly in the athletic and performance field. This trend looks set to remain a firm fixture in the footwear industry for the foreseeable future. In the light of this, footwear materials supplier Texon has taken the design and manufacture of woven uppers to the next level with its patented ProWeave technology. The company claims that it is a revolutionary solution that totally transforms the way that performance fabrics are made and, crucially, how woven uppers can look, feel and function.
Developed to meet the exacting requirements of the world’s biggest footwear brands, ProWeave now makes it possible to seamlessly integrate functional and design weaving directly into the finished upper. Using a jacquard weaving technology, the process is able to interlace hundreds of warp threads or just move a single wrap yarn independently in order to create unique, intricate designs. For footwear manufacturers, the end result is a woven upper with all the physical performance properties and visual characteristics they want, exactly where they want them.
Texon’s business acceleration leader for ProWeave, Paul Jackson, explains: “Texon is a global leader in the production of innovative structural components including heel counters, box toe puffs and insoles. Integral to the shape, comfort, support and fit of shoes, these products are largely hidden from sight, but are used by some of the biggest brands in the business. We are also a front runner in high-end performance fabrics that play an important role in the visual design of consumer goods including footwear. Our Italian division, based in Prato, Tuscany, has a long track record in the manufacture of materials with unique properties that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing, and can be used in shoe uppers, performance garments and fashion accessories. It’s here, in Italy at the creative heart of the global textile industry that ProWeave was invented.”
A novel process
The process is certainly novel in its ability to create different elasticity, tenacity and abrasion zones all within the same weave. The company claims that it is ground-breaking in its approach as it is able to easily blend diverse yarn thicknesses and weights, fabric references and colours together with distinctive gradient, rib, waffle and 3D effects to create unique woven pattern combinations all on the same loom.
Paul Jackson goes on to say: “Using ProWeave, the design possibilities are endless. Footwear manufacturers can come to us with high-level thoughts on how they want a woven upper to work and what they want it to look and feel like. Together, we’ll map out a concept upper in more detail, pinpointing the location of specific physical characteristics, functional zones and visual patterns. Once we’ve agreed a design, we put the upper into production bringing the customer’s ideas to life. From start to finish it’s a liberating process that frees designers from conventional fabric restraints which can hamper the creative process. Delivering limitless functional and aesthetic options, ProWeave allows designers to unleash their creativity and let their imagination run wild in ways that can differentiate their products and unlock real competitive advantage.”
A technology with much to offer
The innovative technology involved is the culmination of years of experience and expertise that brings together Texon’s Italian division’s know-how in high performance occupational and safety woven fabrics with wider expertise in branded footwear from across the Group. Being suitable for use throughout the footwear industry, the company says that the process will appeal to brands that want to stand out from the crowd and are therefore continually looking out for the next big material or manufacturing innovation. By actively aiding the footwear design process, it is an ideal solution for all kinds of footwear and from the sports and outdoor footwear sector, to top luxury and premium brands and even industrial and safety footwear.
In sports shoes, where the trend for woven uppers originated, having the ability to seamlessly blur the lines between form and function is certainly a game-changer. Adding stretch, comfort and dynamic support exactly where required, alongside cool visual effects and patterns will certainly appeal to sportswear designers whether they are making footwear for elite athletes, everyday trainers for joggers and gym enthusiasts, or simply fashionable athleisure shoes.
In the luxury market, where the main drivers are style and creativity, having the ability to use custom yarns and an innovative process to create something unique is a compelling proposition. In the world of haute couture, Texon has already secured a deal with a major international design house. Renowned for its avant-garde style, this global brand will be creating an eye-catching shoe with a bespoke ProWeave upper for its spring/summer 2021 collection.
For the outdoor footwear market, ProWeave can be used to create uppers for technical shoes for specific recreational pursuits such as hiking or climbing. As well as combining properties of comfort and stretch with strength, durability and abrasion resistance, different coatings, membranes, linings, foams, pads and insulation can be included as required.
These characteristics also underpin its possibilities for industrial and safety footwear where shoes need to meet international standards such as EN ISO, CSA and ASTM. Uppers woven with the process are said to be stronger and more resilient than those made from traditional knitted weaves using Raschel and seamless machines. With ProWeave, it is possible to simultaneously weave different yarns together that have differing characteristics, counts and sizes. Mixing recycled, high tenacity, flame retardant, stretch, ballistic and TPU coated yarns together, Texon says it can help footwear manufacturers create different properties in the same upper in order to increase protection.
Elaborating, Paul Jackson says: “We are getting really enthusiastic feedback from customers across the footwear industry. Discussing ProWeave with many key brands, it’s apparent that there is a real curiosity about an upper technology that is so radically different to anything that’s on the market. Lots of the brands we’ve spoken to already trust us to make their structural components. As a result, they are keen to learn more about ProWeave, how it fits within our wider portfolio and the value it can deliver.”
Sustainability
Texon is aiming to be a zero waste business by 2025 so, like other recent product developments, ProWeave is designed to support the footwear industry’s sustainability drive. For instance, it can employ recycled yarns and Texon can give advice on the use of compatible fibres to build recyclable structures for circular projects. It also uses eco-friendly PFC-free printing, dyeing, mechanical and chemical treatments. With fewer offcuts, the manufacture of ProWeave uppers also generates less waste. In addition, the product is supported by Texon Group Zero Waste Programme.
ProWeave is produced in Italy but woven uppers using this technology can also be made at its Vietnam facility which opened in mid 2020. In terms of supply, small quantities can be supplied for series or limited-edition collections or, conversely, it can also be provided for mass production with multiple upper designs on one roll. Concluding, Paul Jackson says: “ProWeave is a big, bold, exciting development for Texon that sets us apart from our competitors. Unparalleled in the market, it is the perfect addition to an already versatile portfolio of products and demonstrates our commitment to innovation and sustainability for the footwear industry.”
All Credits: Texon
