An American icon
Cowboy boots in some form or another continue to come and go as a footwear item, particularly in ladies ranges. The past few years have seen a surge in popularity: sales rose by 70% in the UK and by more than a third in the US in 2019, according to trends forecaster WGSN. These days, they usually tend to reflect a styling influence only in the form of either a heel or toe shape, or simply the way the upper is cut. One thing they all have in common, however, is that they are far removed from the real thing, the boot made famous by countless ‘Westerns’. So what actually distinguishes a real cowboy boot and how did this uniquely American form of footwear originate, what are its distinguishing features and how is it made?
Many people assume that the cowboy boot, like the Western saddle, was originally developed in Mexico for use by the vaqueros who herded cattle. While this is true as regards the saddle, it is not so in the case of the boot. European settlers moving across the American continent during the 19th century soon discovered, that while the former was indeed excellent in every respect, the short, flat boots worn by the vaqueros left much to be desired. It is said that the cowboy boot as we know it, was in fact adapted from the North European riding boot by German bootmakers who settled in Texas during the second half of the 19th century.
Features
The boot they developed was designed to meet the requirements of working with stirrups, so it had a narrow toe which made it easier to put the foot into and out of the stirrup when mounting and dismounting. It also had a high heel to prevent the foot from slipping all the way through the stirrup and becoming trapped which could be extremely dangerous if the rider was thrown and then dragged over rough ground with no help at hand. European cavalry boots had featured high heels ever since the 1600s, which is where the idea would most likely have come from.
In the case of these boots, however, the heel would also slope in at the back so that having roped a steer and dismounted, maximum downward force could be transferred through it in a direct line to the ground when pulling on the rope while the steer was being secured for branding. At the same time, the sole was reinforced through the waist to make it easier for the rider to stand upright in the stirrups. Finally, the leg of the boot was cut high to protect the rider’s legs from chafing by the stirrup leathers. The true cowboy boot was in every respect a functional specialist working boot.
Appeal
While these features combined to make the boots extremely effective when working from the saddle, they also made them uncomfortable to wear while working on the ground. They were in fact not really suitable for walking in, due to the sloping heel, which is perhaps why cowboys on films often appear to hobble between their horses and the nearest saloon. In real life, many of them would own two pairs of boots, one for working and one with a lower straight backed heel for walking. So why are some people, especially Americans, prepared to spend several thousands of dollars for a pair of handmade cowboy boots by the likes of Sorrel Custom Boots in Oklahoma?
The cowboy entered American folklore in the early 20th century via the movies and he has stayed there ever since. The fact that his life was usually hard and sometimes short, only added to his romantic appeal. In a frequently lawless world, he was shown to be prepared to stand up for himself, confront an opponent face to face and let his skill with a gun decide the issue. The fact that he would probably prefer to shoot his opponent in the back if at all possible was conveniently glossed over. He nevertheless continues to represent a lost past where people were largely free from the constraints of the modern world. Perhaps people simply want a link, however tenuous, with that past and, in the case of the boots made by bespoke boot makers, something totally unique.
Construction
The most widely used material is calfskin, although just about any leather can be used if the bootmaker is skilled enough. For dress boots, a variety of exotic leathers including kangaroo, armadillo, ostrich, shark, alligator, eel, lizard and large snake such as python can be used. Lisa Sorrel, for instance, prefers kangaroo for the leg and alligator for the foot. As the leg of a cowboy boot is cut in two flat pieces which are joined at the sides rather than at the front and back, it makes it ideal for decorative treatments using a combination of stitching and overlays as everything can be done on the flat. Due to the fact that many of these leathers are often very thin, a thick lining is bonded to the reverse of the outer leather before any decorative treatment takes place.
Another thing that is common to cowboy boots is that the upper is initially assembled in two halves, a front and a back. First, the vamp is stitched to the front section of the leg and the counter to the back section after which, the two halves are then glued and stitched together down each side. This is carried out with the boot inside out so that the two seams can be trimmed and rubbed down as smoothly as possible. A strip of leather beading is usually included in this seam and this helps it to lay flat as well as add an extra visual feature. The completed upper is then soaked in water until the leather is flexible enough to be turned right outside out again.
The lasting and making of a traditional cowboy boot is also unusual due to the reinforced waist mentioned earlier. Only the forepart of the boot is welted with the sole attached through the waist and around the seat by pegging where fine wooden pegs are driven through the sole and insole. The best bootmakers usually employ two rows to create a really strong and stiff shank area. Because of the high heel, a strong shank is required. This would originally have been wooden but now steel is used, covered by a thick leather cover skived thin at the sides but left full thickness in the middle to create the distinctive rounded waist associated with these boots. This type of construction is clearly not practical for mass production, which is why machine made boots cannot be classed as ‘true’ cowboy boots.
Lasts
Lasts for cowboy boots also feature different characteristics from normal boot or shoe lasts. This can best be seen by referring to the article entitled ‘Shape makes a difference’ in World Footwear September/October 2019. A cowboy boot will ideally be made on a last that has been customised from a standard one as fit is so important, both for comfort and for holding the boot firmly on the foot. Old lasts from the 1940s, particularly those made by Western Last Company and Krentler Brothers, are widely considered to be both the best and the most attractive, and consequently are still being reproduced today.
Modern day cattle ranchers in America still wear cowboy boots when on horseback but they will be machine made and while they will have the outward appearance of the traditional boot, they will clearly not be quite the same. Nevertheless, the influence of the iconic cowboy boot has spread from the prairies of the Old West right across the world and remains a potent image which continues to occupy an important place in modern fashion. If you want a ‘real’ pair of cowboy boots, however, you will have to join a queue and be prepared to spend a great deal of money.
These dress cowboy boots have all the features expected of a top quality custom bootmaker.
All Credits: Lisa Sorrell
